Taking a day journey to the inside of Fiji’s predominant island wasn’t initially in my journey plans.
I quickly realised how fortunate I used to be to undertake this journey once I met my information, Joji, an ex-professional rugby participant who adopted the love of his nationwide sport all over the world earlier than deciding to return to his residence nation. As we chatted, Joji shared his experiences about enjoying rugby and dealing in Japan, France and New Zealand. I turned and requested, ‘Why did you come again?’. Joji laughed. ‘As a result of it’s my residence’, got here the reply. For one thing that sounded so easy, I quickly realised that the that means of residence runs deeply into the worth methods of many Fijians, as their reference to the land lasts a lifetime.
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Nabalesere village and Savulelele waterfall
Making our manner from the capital of Suva to Nabalesere village in Ra Province: the surroundings opens out to rolling hills lined with grasslands, impeccably saved villages and river crossings that take you deeper into lush tropical forests. The northern elements of Viti Levu had been as soon as often called wild and rugged (and so they nonetheless are) however now the area has change into extra accessible because of upgrades in street infrastructure and as information of the realm is handed to different travellers.
We had been the one guests to Nabalesere that day – an unlikely group of 4 from Germany, Belgium, Kuwait and Australia – the Aussie being me. Heavy rain had fallen the night time earlier than (we had been travelling in the course of the begin of the moist season in December) and there have been discussions as as to whether we might be capable to make it throughout the river. Our information was reassured by the neighborhood on a cellphone name that the crossing was accessible and all was A-OK to get there. Visits are organised immediately with the neighborhood’s tourism working group and permission is requested earlier than having access to the waterfall.


Wandering by means of the homestay.
Arriving on the village, we wrapped a sulu round our legs (very similar to a sarong) to cowl ourselves out of an indication of respect and modesty to the neighborhood. The normal garment is worn by each women and men all through Fiji. We had been requested to take away hats and sun shades, then we had been greeted by Paula, our native information for the day. Whereas being led by means of the village we gave a wave to the curious eyes, which was returned with a hearty ‘Bula!’, that means whats up in Fijian.
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Ferns alongside the trail resulting in Savulelele waterfall.
Everybody appeared to know what we had been there for and the welcoming feeling prolonged each step of the best way as we took the quick one-kilometre incline to the thunderous surprise. As we adopted the path and Paula shared his information of the realm, the ferns grew larger and clusters of grass leaned into the trail, rising denser with every step. We heard the grand thunder of the falls earlier than we caught our first glimpses. Taking a river crossing, a heavy mist hung within the air and tiny droplets patted our forearms as we edged nearer.


The river crossing at Savulelele.
What a sight! Extending deep into the bottom, the sheer magnitude of the waterhole was overwhelming because the water tumbled over deep inexperienced hues of moss-covered rocks that unfold into each nook and cranny, creating its personal cool local weather. Shrieks of pleasure echoed from the younger ones who had adopted us in from the village.


Savulelele Waterfall, Fiji.
Getting nearer to the falls, each sense was awoken. After what I felt was a courageous little bit of manoeuvring across the base of the waterfall (but the others appeared to deal with with grace), each Joji and Paula inspired me to leap in. ‘Right here I am going!’ I assumed. The frenzy of cool water felt therapeutic to the soul. And as I paddled round Savulelele waterfall, I realised this was our time to take pleasure in what Mom Nature had delivered to Nabalasere.
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Kava ceremony
Returning to the village, we had been invited to the neighborhood corridor to heat up over a cup of regionally grown lemon-leaf tea and sit down cross-legged to satisfy our native hosts. As we launched ourselves, we shared our impressions of the waterfall. The satisfaction felt for Nabalasere and its pure environment radiated from every neighborhood member. Because the sharing continued, a girl dealt with a cream mesh bag whereas sitting over an amazing wood bowl named a Tanoa. A cushty silence fell over the hosts and, as company, we adopted their lead. We watched because the Tanoa was stuffed with clear consuming water and the lady plunged the bag stuffed with kava roots into the bowl, then wrung out the fabric. The swishing rotations and squeezing continued at a gentle tempo till the water started to show the color of river sand.
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A standard kava ceremony
For every coconut cup that was offered to our group, the recipient was gently directed to clap their fingers 3 times, then to gulp the liquid down. When it got here round to me, certainly one of my claps appeared to falter, however that didn’t matter – I drew the cup to my mouth and rapidly poured the liquid down like a mighty shot. I used to be given the nod of approval. It was undoubtedly an earthy style however not too sturdy. Two cups later my tongue felt barely numb however aside from that I used to be clear headed and caught up within the second. This was the primary time I’d been to a kava ceremony and tried the notorious beverage of the South Pacific.
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Kava goes hand in hand with Fijian tradition and hospitality, whether or not it’s in a distant village or inside the city centres all through the islands. I’ve been instructed by Fijians it’s most popular in most communities over alcohol and is related to a gesture of communication and togetherness. Consuming kava, it will possibly take as much as 4 or 5 cups earlier than you begin to really feel the calming results, nonetheless this will fluctuate relying on the energy of the combination.
For me, the journey to the inside on the island of Viti Levu was about studying from the neighborhood and experiencing traditions in an unbelievable pure setting. You’re left with a sense of gratitude after being invited into somebody’s residence. The curling ferns and type interactions from each particular person left an enduring impression.
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All pictures by Jenna Hoare.Â